At the Triennale, the Surprising World of Rick Owens

“The clothes I create are my autobiography. They represent the elegant calm that I aspire to and the damage I’ve done along the way. They are an expression of kindness and a raging soul. They are adolescent idealism and its inevitable defeat.” The words of Rick Owens, the visionary stylist from California that, since 1994, has revolutionised fashion by radically expanding its confines. The latest fashion designer to create never-before-seen lines, one of the few over the last few years to give life to an absolutely incisive aesthetic universe, mixing forms and materials from the natural world with inspiration from post-apocalyptic films. Some have insisted that his clothes are more appropriate in a museum hall than a wardrobe. So it makes sense that the Triennale hosts the first retrospective dedicated to the stylist from Porterville. Subhuman Inhuman Superhuman is a dive into the unique atmospheres of Owens: clothing, furnishings, accessories, publications and graphic works are the cardinal points of a surprising galaxy, a meeting-point between a distant past and an unpredictable future. Completing the selection curated and mounted by the artist himself, his first large sculpture, an installation that takes up the entire exhibition space with a gathering of cement, lilies, sand from the Adriatic Sea and the artist’s hair.
Francesca Grego - © 2018 for Bulgari Hotel Milano